Kirchlbach

Last Update: 20.10.2024 by Jeroen Kirchner
Region: Tirol
Subregion: Bezirk Innsbruck-Land
Town: Scharnitz
v3 a2 IV
4h5
1h
3h
5min
1460m
1165m
295m
x
26m
2x30m
16
800m
on Foot
Rating:
★★★★★
4 (3)
Info:
★★★
1.5 (2)
Belay:
★★★
2 (3)
Summary:
Alpine tour in an increasingly narrow and deep gorge. It includes traversing on large snowremains, possible damaged anchors and should only be tackled by experienced teams with the appropriate gear.
Increasingly narrow canyon that reaches its high point at the exit. Located in the Karwendel nature reserve ("Naturpark").
East
Summary:
Alpine tour in an increasingly narrow and deep gorge. It includes traversing on large snowremains, possible damaged anchors and should only be tackled by experienced teams with the appropriate gear.
Increasingly narrow canyon that reaches its high point at the exit. Located in the Karwendel nature reserve ("Naturpark").
Access:
Von Scharnitz mit dem Rad in das Karwendeltal Richtung Karwendelhaus. Nach der Isarbrücke biegen wir links ab und fahren zunächst steil hinauf in das Karwendeltal. 6,1 km nach dieser abzweigung kreuzen wir den Kirchlbach. Hier stellen wir unsere Räder ab.
From Scharnitz, cycle into the Karwendel valley towards the Karwendelhaus. After the Isar bridge, turn left and cycle steeply up into the Karwendel valley. 6.1 km after this turn-off we cross the Kirchlbach. We park our bikes here.
Approach (1 h):
Etwa 400m weiter auf der Straße biegen wir auf einen Feldweg links ab. Wir verlassen diesen später und folgen dem Pfad, der uns hinauf führt, bis sich ein Zustieg in das hier offene Bachbett anbietet.
About 400m further along the road, we turn left onto a dirt track. We leave this later and follow the path that leads us uphill until we reach an access point into the open streambed.
Tour (3 h):
Updated tour Oct. 2024 2 bolts L 20m 1 bolt R 10m 2 bolts R 20m (original anchor on bad rock!) 1 bolt L 10m 1 bolt R 20m 2 bolts L 25m 1 bolt L 6m 1 bolt L 8m Snowfield to traverse for 100-200m: emergency bolt L 20m (if snow still reaches the bend in the canyon), if the end of the snow is in sight before the bend in the canyon (a wall that stops the snow) descend with alpine techniques and find 1 bolt L 15m Narrow part, high chances of rockfall, 2 different bolts R 8-10m Stuck boulder, 1 bolt R 10m (damaged quicklink backed up with carabiner) 2 bolts R 16m 1 bolt R 18m Grand finale 1 bolt L 24m (the other anchors are, at present, unreachable) Possible second snowremains (building a higher wall than the first) possible emergency exit L 1 bolt L 10m Downclimb and exit
See photos & video
Return (5 min):
Nachdem wir aus der Klamm heraus sind, ca. 100m im breiten Kiesbett zur Straßenbrücke.
After we are out of the gorge, about 100m in the wide gravel bed to the road bridge.

Coordinates:

Parking Entry and Exit
47.413501°, 11.316874°
DMS: 47° 24" 48.6', 11° 19" 0.75'

DM: 47° 24.81", 11° 19.012"

Google Maps

Austria Topo
Abstellplatz Fahrräder an der Straßenbrücke
Waypoint
47.416513°, 11.319789°
DMS: 47° 24" 59.45', 11° 19" 11.24'

DM: 47° 24.991", 11° 19.187"

Google Maps

Austria Topo
Abzweigung von der Straße, Beginn Aufstieg
Canyon Start
47.419025°, 11.306435°
DMS: 47° 25" 8.49', 11° 18" 23.17'

DM: 47° 25.141", 11° 18.386"

Google Maps

Austria Topo
Canyon End
47.414796°, 11.314497°
DMS: 47° 24" 53.27', 11° 18" 52.19'

DM: 47° 24.888", 11° 18.87"

Google Maps

Austria Topo
Klammende

Literatures:

Canyoning Book
Tiroler Canyoningführer
Alexander Riml / Gunnar Amor
2012
Canyoning Book
Canyoning in Bayern und Tirol
Werner Baumgarten
2010
Map
AV-Karte 5/3, Karwendelgebirge-Ost, 1: 25 000
Canyoning Book
Canyoning in Bayern und Tirol (2. Auflage)
Werner Baumgarten
2013
16.10.2024 Jeroen Kirchner ★★★★★ 📖 ★★★ ★★★ 💧 Normal Completed ✔
Also this year, very late (October), large snowremains halfway and (this is new) also at the exit of the canyon, both impossible to go below. Alpine techniques are a must! Anchors: some of the single anchors deemed 'ok' by previous teams, are actually on hollow, fractured rock!! These are now doubled but should be evaluated carefully, possibly equalized or even relocated. I have taken out much of the non-stainless steel anchors and replaced with inox. Doubled or renewed others. At the end of the large snowfield halfway the canyon, there is an emergency anchor (high!) and a damaged anchor (low), both on the left. The snow seems to end at this location every year (i.e. just before the narrow part, where the canyon makes a bend and stops the snow), this emergency anchor may be useful for reentering the canyon. From this point onwards, high chances of rockfall, until the impressive grand finale with unreachable anchors (i added in 2023 a single M10 on the left, with exposed access but well-protected). I post the sequence here, for copying it to the file on Opencanyon: 2 bolts L 20m 1 bolt R 10m 2 bolts R 20m (original anchor on bad rock!) 1 bolt L 10m 1 bolt R 20m 2 bolts L 25m 1 bolt L 6m 1 bolt L 8m Emergency exit L Snowfield to traverse for 100-200m: emergency bolt L 20m (if snow still reaches the bend in the canyon), if the end of the snow is in sight before the bend in the canyon (a wall that stops the snow) descend with alpine techniques and find 1 bolt L 15m Narrow part, high chances of rockfall, 2 different bolts R 8-10m Stuck boulder, 1 bolt R 10m (damaged quicklink backed up with carabiner) 2 bolts R 16m 1 bolt R 18m Grand finale 1 bolt L 24m (the other anchors are, at present, unreachable) Possible second snowremains (building a higher wall than the first) possible emergency exit L 1 bolt L 10m Downclimb and exit
11.07.2024 yuc ★★★★★ 📖 ★★★ ★★★ 💧 Normal Completed ✔
Only the first anchor has two points; all the rest are single points. The anchors are mixed with M8 aluminum (or non-stainless steel?) and M10 stainless steel. The oldest anchors are M8 Aluminum Petzl Hanger (look like this https://vintageclimbing.com/products/hanger). - We replaced two rusty maillons with 8mm galvanized steel one. - We took down one worn-out orange rope, because there is another well-bolted anchor nearby. - We rappeled with the existing bolts and didn't feel unsafe, but use them at your own risk. - We met some snow in the middle of the riverbed, but walking beneath/around it was easy and fun. Be sure to come to this canyon after the snow has mostly melted, because the snow can literally block the passage. - Approach trails are not obvious in the middle, but it is not hard to find the correct direction. - Rocks are mostly not slippery.
07.10.2023 Gregor Bernsteiner ★★★★★ 📖 ★★★ ★★★ 💧 Low Completed ✔
Alle Stände OK
All stands OK
Hydrology:
Snowremains, rainfall and karstic sources at start of the canyon.